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Article #133: African Lion Safari in Kenya: The Ultimate African Safari and Lion Country

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The African lion is fabled as the King of beeline to a river, 100m between them and
the African Jungle. On a recent vacation the mating lions.
to the Maasai Mara game reserve in Kenya, Maasai co-exist with the wildlife
I was awed at the sheer respect that the We were about to leave when I noticed
African lion commands. It was one of the their surprised look. Like we didn't
most rewarding trips in all my wildlife understand that lions are part of their
safari vacations. life. Like we needed not to have bothered
It was the morning a day after our them with the obvious. That's when I
arrival at Olarro Camp located in the realized how much the Maasai have learnt
Maasai Mara, one of the best animal the art of co-existence with the
safari destinations in Africa. We wildlife. I wouldn't have been amazed if
departed camp at around 6.00am in the they had walked right passed us, as we
morning for our much awaited morning game watched the lions like there was no
drive. Our Maasai guide, Sammy, and the danger. I imagine them walking in between
camp manager Sean packed us in their open us and the pride, chatting and laughing
Land rover truck and off we went on a at this group of tourists huddled
popular game track. We were pleasantly silently, scarred stiff and almost
surprised at Sammy's spotting prowess immobilized by the sheer might of the
that, less than a kilometer from camp, African lion at a mating contest.
had already spotted a lone male cheetah. The million dollar gaze of the lion
Probably on its early morning hunting This was an experience that I always
stakeout, the cheetah wasn't very amused relive when I look at the photos taken on
at our unwelcome intrusion and trudged that safari. It's what an African lion
along grudgingly. safari does to you. You get to be in the
The mating Lions presence of his highness the majesty king
Off we went to look out for the elusive of the Jungle...in his tuff. Nothing
lions in the short savannah brush. We beats that glaring look and the thrill
were negotiating a blind corner when that goes with it when your eyes lock
.....Wham... a pride of 3 young males in into his menacing, unblinking and
the company of a lone female. The minute threatening stare...That's the African
I spotted the lions, I knew this is not lion stare....humbling it is.
the situation you want to seem too African Lion coming of age
intrusive. One seemingly larger male Lion The African lion matures at the age of
with a slightly darkening mane was 4-5 years. A fully grown male lion has a
separated from other 2 young and was busy very dark mane while the youth grow a
courting a Lioness. The two other lions mane gradually, which then darkens as
seemed to have lost the contest for the they progress in age. The males are
single lioness and were circling around pushed off their families when they
the pair with a lot of bitterness. Our become sexually mature by the king of the
arrival had simply compounded their pride. African Lions usually sleep and
anger. On the other hand, we had walked rest for 16hours a day only getting up to
onto a mating pair and the dominant male hunt in the early mornings, late evenings
was so infuriated by our interruption of and at night. Usually the King-lion of
his engrossing activities with the the pride commands between 5-10 lionesses
lioness. We simply had too many lions including the cubs. This male will
against our arrival. For a full 5 aggressively protect its territory
minutes, there was absolute silence as against intruding males who contest for
each party looked deep and hard into the the females.
eyes of the other. Trying to read the Overthrowing the Lion King
intent of either, we starred long and There are a lot of coup d'e'tat in the
hard. I could feel my thunderous pulse as lion kingdom and the male constantly gets
through my heart had moved into my arms into territorial wars with invading
and ears. Our fear was worsened by the lions. Once in a while a female becomes
fact that we were riding in an open disenchanted and leaves the pride to seek
vehicle and the lions would have had no out younger and more aggressive males.
trouble taking us out .... one by one. Once a lion has successfully overthrown a
Deceitful distraction dominant male, they set upon establishing
The African lion has this uncanny their kingdom immediately by making the
behaviour when faced by such an intense females submissive. How they do this is
gridlock. It simply looks aside as if what will surprise you.
something else more urgent got its Conqueror males kill all Cubs
attention, while keeping you within its One of the most bizarre behaviour of
visual sphere. This serves two purposes, lions is that a conqueror male often
one is to disarm you by trying to kills all young cubs fathered by the
distract your stare and secondly to defeated former king lion of the pride.
cleverly provide a leeway to the impasse The lioness will fight, sometimes to
and hostility created by locking eyes in death, when the male lion goes for her
an imminent confrontation. When faced by cubs. There are two reasons for this
a formidable enemy who it cannot behaviour, one is to establish a lineage
translate to food, the African lion will of his own and secondly to as quickly as
never attack if you have your eyes possible make the females come to oestrus
locked. One cannot be too cautious; "you and ready to mate. It's always a rush
never know what surprise these humans can before other male lions come to undermine
spring... a club, machete or worse his authority over the pride.
even....a bloody gun". Traveling to the Maasai Mara -Kenya
The day is saved On arrival in Nairobi, one is picked up
A relief to this situation came from the by his tour operator for an overnight
other two young, small maned lions who stay at the city's many five star Hotels.
noticed their chances of contesting for It's always advisable to have a night
the lioness, had just gone from worse to rest before embarking on to the Mara; if
impossible.....there were just too many you are to enjoy your game drives. The
of us for their liking. They casually next morning you drive about 400km to the
strolled of with their heads high and Mara in either a 4x4 or a minivan and you
into underbrush. It took the older male are booked into many of the world class
Lion about five minutes to be reassured lodges in the Game Reserve. You will be
that we posed no threat to his mating entitled to at least 2 game drives a day
advances to the lioness. Usually, the and you will be surprised at the animals
most dangerous situations to be caught in you will see immediately outside the gate
are between a mating pair or a lioness to your lodge...That's Mara for you.
with its cubs. The King lion proceeded to The wonder that is the Mara
mate with the female unperturbed by our Elephants graze 1 metre off your game
presence; like we never existed.... and drive tracks, cheetahs will stare at you
if we did then he was seeing things or seated majestically under tree trunks and
could as well have been blind. "A lion's occasionally jump on the hood of your car
got to do what a lion got to do....you for that vantage view point for prey, a
want to stay and watch... well that's herd of a thousand buffalos will gaze at
your problem" you all at once with over 2,000 eye
We finally decided that we needed to give balls, lions will sprawl for an hour
them their space and started to drive underneath your van for the shade and
off. The dominant king lion must have wildebeest will gallop past your car in
thanked us for making his competition their millions as they head for the
from the other two go away. But just as breath taking river crossings packed with
we started off we heard excited human crocodiles and strong currents.
voices and knew they were headed for An experience worth its weight in
certain disaster. We revved off our car platinum. Please email this article to
towards the noises and found four Maasai friends who enjoy wildlife in the Wild.
women chatting animatedly as they made a






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