Kenya- Still at the Heart of the African Safari Experience

The popular image of safari, especially in thedistance from Nairobi as Lake Nakuru is the
west, is inseparable from Kenya. Earlier in the lastAberdares National Park. The park has a diverse
century, gifted writers such as Ernest Hemingwaytopography that includes waterfalls, rain forests
and Karen Blixen brought to life the vivid imagesand the rivers that supply water to
and uplifting life experience that constitutes aNairobi’s millions. The flora and fauna is
Kenyan safari. It is at this time that leadingquite unique and is not found elsewhere in the
celebrities of the day such as Teddy Rooseveltcountry, expect on Mount Kenya. Leopard,
and Prince Edward traveled to Kenya on safari.elephant, rhino and the rare bongo can all be
And so the safari gained a certain snob appeal.found here. But dense vegetation and inclement
The famous went because it was expected ofweather makes it difficult to spot animals. You are
them. And those on the make because the safarihowever guaranteed to see some animals
was part of the certification they needed on theespecially elephants and buffalos at the floodlit
way up. If you want to take a peek into thewaterholes of the two famous tree hotels, The
mood and character of the players at that time,Ark and Treetops.Students of the history of the
read Hemingway’s intriguing short storyBritish royal family will recall that it was at the
“The Short Happy Life of FrancisTreetops in 1952, where the then Princess
Macomber”.In our day however, a KenyaElizabeth was staying on honeymoon when her
safari is accessible to many more people. Despitefather, King George VI, died. She descended from
competition from other destinations, KenyaTreetops to assume the backbreaking role of
remains the heart of the African safaripresiding over the far-flung dominions and colonies
experience. The magnificence and diversity of theof the empire. If you stay at the Treetops you
wildlife and landscape is unsurpassed. You areare bound to meet with some of her fans.Though
guaranteed to tick off the full roster of the bignot as famous as the Mara, Samburu National
five –lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino andPark is another wildlife haven. Here you will spot
elephant. Other less well-known but essential andlions, elephants, cheetahs and the elusive leopard.
chartered members of the savannah ecosystemSome animals are unique to this northern park:
are also abundant. The landscape kaleidoscope rollsGrevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, kudu and
out the magnificent rift valley, the centralgerenuk. You will find the semiarid landscape quite
highlands, the savannah grasslands, snow cappeddramatic. On your trip to Samburu, you may also
Mount Kenya and the desolate moonscape of thewant to take in the nearby Shaba and Buffalo
north. This is perhaps why the experts advise allSprings game reserves. In addition, this is the
those faithful lovers of wildlife and nature that atplace to take a camel safari. Samburu is three
least once in their lifetime they must partake of ahours from Nairobi by road.Tsavo is so huge, all of
Kenyan safari.Kenya has over 50 national parks20,000 sq km, that it is administered as two units:
and game reserves where wildlife is protected.Tsavo West and Tsavo East. This is the park
But as you already suspect, on the average safarithat is closest to Mombasa at the coast. The park
you cannot hope to cover all of them. It isis three and a half hours away from Nairobi by
therefore a good thing that you get very goodroad. You will find large herds of elephant,
value by visiting only a few of them. This is unlessespecially in Tsavo East. Tsavo West is filled with
of course you have a lot of time and can affordcrocodiles, vervet monkeys, antelope, baboons,
to take off the beaten track. The most populargiraffes and hippos. It is in Tsavo that poachers
and from which those with limited time andwere most successful in their bloody racket and
budget need to pick from are- Maasai Mara,this saw a dramatic fall in elephant population. The
Amboseli, Lake Nakuru, Aberdares, Samburu andgood guys have in recent years gained the upper
Tsavo. Top in the off-the-beaten track categoryhand and numbers are recovering.But Kenyan
for either wildlife or back to nature activities are-authorities are still extremely wary of the future
Kakamega Forest, Marsabit, Meru, Mount Kenya,of the elephant in Tsavo. The country is very
Mount Elgon and Shimba Hills.Maasai Mara is the bigactive in seeking a permanent ban on the
one. This is where you must go even when all theinternational ivory trade. I wish at this point to
time you can spare is two nights. This is mostlydeclare to all that I am a great fan of the African
where all those wildlife videos on Kenya areelephant. I believe this to be the true king of the
filmed. The Mara, as the Maasai Mara Gamejungle and not that overrated pretender, the lion.
Reserve is commonly known, is part of theYou may recall from the movie “The
ecosystem that includes the equally famousMan-eaters of Tsavo” how cowardly lions
Serengeti of Tanzania. Covering 320 squaredisrupted the building of the railway in the Tsavo
kilometers, it is nested in the southwestern cornerarea by feeding on the workforce. Would true
of the country. The Mara offers wildlife in suchroyalty be involved in such a disgraceful
variety and abundance that it is difficult to believe.affair?Kenya is a year round safari destination.
On a two-night visit, I saw lions, rhinos, hippos,The rains come around April- May and
crocodiles, giraffe, wildebeests, zebras, buffalo,November-December. This does not however,
warthogs, hyenas, jackals, wild dogs, buffalo,much affect the travelers’ ability to get
leopard, nine kinds of antelopes and elephant. Thearound. This is except for the heavily forested
birds are also in plenty –secretary birds,Aberdares. In the wet season the roads in the
cranes, stork, vultures and ostriches.It is in theAberdares are extremely slippery and the park is
Mara that perhaps the most spectacular event ofat times actually closed down. Generally the best
the natural world takes place. I refer to the annualtime to go on safari is over the drier months
migration of millions of wildebeest and zebra fromwhen the grass is short and sighting animals is so
the Serengeti in search of water and pasture. Themuch easier. But in areas such as the Mara, the
timing of the phenomena is conditional on the rainsanimals are so plentiful that you are going to see
and occurs between June and August. Thelots of them regardless of the season. The peak
reverse journey is usually taken in October. Withtourist season falls around January to February
or without the migration the Mara has abundantand July to August. April to June is the low season
numbers of resident animals and you are sure toand prices for accommodation in the lodges can
have a good wildlife viewing experience whateverbe as much as 40% lower than in the high
time of the year you visit. If you have sufficientseason.Accommodation on safari varies from
funds, consider taking a balloon trip over thebasic camping to luxury lodges and tented camps.
reserve. This popular and thoroughly memorableOut there in the bush, you will be pleasantly
ride usually commences before dawn and includessurprised that all the trimmings of 5 star
a champagne breakfast. The Mara is 5 hoursaccommodations are available. But if you want to
from Nairobi by road and 45 minutes by lightrough it out, you will find campsites in almost all
aircraft.Amboseli National Park sits on the lowerthe game reserves and national parks. Info on
slopes of mighty Kilimanjaro whose peak is acrossKenya hotels, lodges & resorts accommodation
the border in Tanzania. It is quite an experience tooptions is available online.It is generally
see the Kilimanjaro hovering above the clouds inrecommended to take an escorted Kenya safari
an early morning. As the keen photographytour package that includes transport, park fees
enthusiast can already imagine, the mountain givesand accommodation. The reason for this is that
a dramatic backdrop for animal pictures. Amboselithe tour guides are usually well versed about the
is renowned for its huge elephant herds. You willanimals, where to find them and how to get
also see buffalo, black rhino, zebra, wildebeest andthere and have other such useful local knowledge.
other plain animals. Lions and other cats can beHave a look at some offers of various durations
seen but are less plentiful here than in the Mara.and budgets.But if you have a lot of time and
The park is 3 hours from Nairobi by road and canneed more freedom as you get around, then hire
be approached through Namanga, the border posta vehicle in either Nairobi or Mombasa. For Kenya
between Kenya and Tanzania.Lakecar rental there is a choice between self-drive and
Nakuru’s claim to fame is anchored on itschauffer driven vehicles. On safari, wear light
flamingo’s and the over 400 species ofcottons and linen. Warmer clothing is needed for
birds found here. The lake itself is a soda lake onthe evenings and for your early morning game
the floor of the rift valley. The sight of the atdrive. Some rainwear is advisable between March
times millions of flamingos is quite spectacular.and June and October and December.You should
From a distance the lake appears ringed in pink.bring along a decent pair of sunglasses. The glare
Lake Nakuru is also host to a sanctuary for theyou experience in bright tropical light is a new and
endangered black and white rhino. Lions,uncomfortable experience for most. It is also a
Rothschild’s giraffe, buffalo and baboonsgood idea to carry a pair of binoculars. They are
are all residents here. The park is the mostvery useful for spotting animals and will earn you
accessible of Kenya’s bigger parks and isthe envy of your less knowledgeable traveling
only two hours from Nairobi by road.At the samecompanions.