| Mongolia -The Best Camping Place | | | | having been destroyed at the beginning of the |
| If you've made it to Beijing, you might as well | | | | Soviet era. But thee is a fair bit of tradition: |
| catch the flight to Ulaan Baatar. The grass is | | | | Whether it's the gers-of which more in a |
| always greener. | | | | moment-in the suburbs, or the men and women |
| It's always a curiosity to see how middle class | | | | in distinctive Mongolian dresses-of del (long robe) |
| urban Mongolia lived. In the centre of Ulaan Baatar, | | | | and loovuuz (hat)-on the streets. |
| home to a third of Mongolia the skyline is still | | | | Undor Dov Ger Camp was a piece of fenced-off |
| dominated by Soviet-style multi-storey apartment | | | | land in which four rows of ger tents stood next |
| blocks. In the tiny enclosed space, the vastness | | | | to a modern-looking concrete tower topped by a |
| of Mongolia's Russian history showed through: | | | | bulbous, onion-shaped dome. The ger is the |
| everything from the curios to the furniture bore | | | | obvious choice. A ger is a traditional circular tent, |
| the unmistakable imprint of that Socialist bear hug. | | | | which is still very much a symbol of the Mongolian |
| Pack your bags for the weekend in the Ger | | | | Way. Even in cities like UB, where nearly a third of |
| Camp at Undor Dov. The picturesque mountains | | | | the locals live in gers. It's partly economics, but |
| surrounding UB give way to a gentler terrain. A | | | | many Mongolians prefer gers to flats, which they |
| steady procession of hills, with their undulation | | | | find too damp. Like much else in traditional |
| shades of dark and light. Up ahead, a vast | | | | Mongolia, a ger has a simple, functional design. It is |
| expanse of flat land, with the lengthening shadows | | | | a round tent covered on the outside with canvas. |
| giving an increasing sharpness and depth to the | | | | There is an insulating layer of felt in the middle, |
| landscape. | | | | while it is lined on the inside with richly printed |
| UB: a scene out of Star Trek. Middle of nowhere | | | | cloth |
| a town surrounded by bald hills, their outlines | | | | . |
| visible through a dense reddish haze and, | | | | Makeup is a Russian gift to Mongolia that |
| occasionally, cream-colored smoke billowing out of | | | | separates the urban from the rural. It is rare in |
| black factory chimneys. But speeding mirrors and | | | | UB to see women without makeup. |
| fading light are not the preferred way to | | | | TERELJ; - 80 KM northeast of UB as lovely |
| appreciate the charms of UB. In bright Mongolian | | | | scenery and is great for adventure activities. |
| sunshine, UB has the feel of a laid-back East | | | | There are also temples and monasteries |
| European city where the clock has somehow | | | | . |
| stood still for nearly half a century, but with one | | | | Go camping. This lonely planet Mongolia "probably |
| difference: it escaped the ravages of the | | | | the greatest countries in the world for camping' -. |
| European war. | | | | Unfenced and unowned land spectacular scenery. |
| The city outside is rapidly erasing the memory of | | | | At a tourist ger camp, a night stays cost |
| its Russian past, although the architectural | | | | Is about $35(including meals) |
| legacy-ugly government buildings and large garish | | | | . |
| theatres-will doubtless endure for a while yet. | | | | Undor Dov about 50 km south of ub has a tourist |
| Despite the time warp, though, UB has little sense | | | | camp ($45. |
| of history-most of the monasteries and temples | | | | |