Kenya- Still at the Heart of the African Safari Experience

The popular image of safari, especially in theNakuru is the Aberdares National Park. The park
west, is inseparable from Kenya. Earlier in the lasthas a diverse topography that includes waterfalls,
century, gifted writers such as Ernest Hemingwayrain forests and the rivers that supply water to
and Karen Blixen brought to life the vivid imagesNairobi’s millions. The flora and fauna is
and uplifting life experience that constitutes aquite unique and is not found elsewhere in the
Kenyan safari. It is at this time that leadingcountry, expect on Mount Kenya. Leopard,
celebrities of the day such as Teddy Rooseveltelephant, rhino and the rare bongo can all be
and Prince Edward traveled to Kenya on safari.found here. But dense vegetation and inclement
And so the safari gained a certain snob appeal.weather makes it difficult to spot animals. You are
The famous went because it was expected ofhowever guaranteed to see some animals
them. And those on the make because the safariespecially elephants and buffalos at the floodlit
was part of the certification they needed on thewaterholes of the two famous tree hotels, The
way up. If you want to take a peek into theArk and Treetops.
mood and character of the players at that time,Students of the history of the British royal family
read Hemingway’s intriguing short storywill recall that it was at the Treetops in 1952,
“The Short Happy Life of Franciswhere the then Princess Elizabeth was staying on
Macomber”.honeymoon when her father, King George VI,
In our day however, a Kenya safari is accessibledied. She descended from Treetops to assume
to many more people. Despite competition fromthe backbreaking role of presiding over the
other destinations, Kenya remains the heart offar-flung dominions and colonies of the empire. If
the African safari experience. The magnificenceyou stay at the Treetops you are bound to meet
and diversity of the wildlife and landscape iswith some of her fans.
unsurpassed. You are guaranteed to tick off theThough not as famous as the Mara, Samburu
full roster of the big five –lion, buffalo,National Park is another wildlife haven. Here you
leopard, rhino and elephant. Other less well-knownwill spot lions, elephants, cheetahs and the elusive
but essential and chartered members of theleopard. Some animals are unique to this northern
savannah ecosystem are also abundant. Thepark: Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, kudu and
landscape kaleidoscope rolls out the magnificentgerenuk. You will find the semiarid landscape quite
rift valley, the central highlands, the savannahdramatic. On your trip to Samburu, you may also
grasslands, snow capped Mount Kenya and thewant to take in the nearby Shaba and Buffalo
desolate moonscape of the north. This is perhapsSprings game reserves. In addition, this is the
why the experts advise all those faithful lovers ofplace to take a camel safari. Samburu is three
wildlife and nature that at least once in theirhours from Nairobi by road.
lifetime they must partake of a Kenyan safari.Tsavo is so huge, all of 20,000 sq km, that it is
Kenya has over 50 national parks and gameadministered as two units: Tsavo West and
reserves where wildlife is protected. But as youTsavo East. This is the park that is closest to
already suspect, on the average safari youMombasa at the coast. The park is three and a
cannot hope to cover all of them. It is thereforehalf hours away from Nairobi by road. You will find
a good thing that you get very good value bylarge herds of elephant, especially in Tsavo East.
visiting only a few of them. This is unless ofTsavo West is filled with crocodiles, vervet
course you have a lot of time and can afford tomonkeys, antelope, baboons, giraffes and hippos.
take off the beaten track. The most popular andIt is in Tsavo that poachers were most
from which those with limited time and budgetsuccessful in their bloody racket and this saw a
need to pick from are- Maasai Mara, Amboseli,dramatic fall in elephant population. The good guys
Lake Nakuru, Aberdares, Samburu and Tsavo.have in recent years gained the upper hand and
Top in the off-the-beaten track category fornumbers are recovering.
either wildlife or back to nature activities are-But Kenyan authorities are still extremely wary of
Kakamega Forest, Marsabit, Meru, Mount Kenya,the future of the elephant in Tsavo. The country
Mount Elgon and Shimba Hills.is very active in seeking a permanent ban on the
Maasai Mara is the big one. This is where youinternational ivory trade. I wish at this point to
must go even when all the time you can spare isdeclare to all that I am a great fan of the African
two nights. This is mostly where all those wildlifeelephant. I believe this to be the true king of the
videos on Kenya are filmed. The Mara, as thejungle and not that overrated pretender, the lion.
Maasai Mara Game Reserve is commonly known,You may recall from the movie “The
is part of the ecosystem that includes the equallyMan-eaters of Tsavo” how cowardly lions
famous Serengeti of Tanzania. Covering 320disrupted the building of the railway in the Tsavo
square kilometers, it is nested in thearea by feeding on the workforce. Would true
southwestern corner of the country. The Mararoyalty be involved in such a disgraceful affair?
offers wildlife in such variety and abundance thatKenya is a year round safari destination. The rains
it is difficult to believe. On a two-night visit, I sawcome around April- May and
lions, rhinos, hippos, crocodiles, giraffe, wildebeests,November-December. This does not however,
zebras, buffalo, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, wildmuch affect the travelers’ ability to get
dogs, buffalo, leopard, nine kinds of antelopes andaround. This is except for the heavily forested
elephant. The birds are also in plentyAberdares. In the wet season the roads in the
–secretary birds, cranes, stork, vulturesAberdares are extremely slippery and the park is
and ostriches.at times actually closed down. Generally the best
It is in the Mara that perhaps the mosttime to go on safari is over the drier months
spectacular event of the natural world takeswhen the grass is short and sighting animals is so
place. I refer to the annual migration of millions ofmuch easier. But in areas such as the Mara, the
wildebeest and zebra from the Serengeti inanimals are so plentiful that you are going to see
search of water and pasture. The timing of thelots of them regardless of the season. The peak
phenomena is conditional on the rains and occurstourist season falls around January to February
between June and August. The reverse journey isand July to August. April to June is the low season
usually taken in October. With or without theand prices for accommodation in the lodges can
migration the Mara has abundant numbers ofbe as much as 40% lower than in the high
resident animals and you are sure to have a goodseason.
wildlife viewing experience whatever time of theAccommodation on safari varies from basic
year you visit. If you have sufficient funds,camping to luxury lodges and tented camps. Out
consider taking a balloon trip over the reserve.there in the bush, you will be pleasantly surprised
This popular and thoroughly memorable ridethat all the trimmings of 5 star accommodations
usually commences before dawn and includes aare available. But if you want to rough it out, you
champagne breakfast. The Mara is 5 hours fromwill find campsites in almost all the game reserves
Nairobi by road and 45 minutes by light aircraft.and national parks. Info on Kenya hotels, lodges
Amboseli National Park sits on the lower slopes of& resorts accommodation options is available
mighty Kilimanjaro whose peak is across theonline.
border in Tanzania. It is quite an experience toIt is generally recommended to take an escorted
see the Kilimanjaro hovering above the clouds inKenya safari tour package that includes transport,
an early morning. As the keen photographypark fees and accommodation. The reason for
enthusiast can already imagine, the mountain givesthis is that the tour guides are usually well versed
a dramatic backdrop for animal pictures. Amboseliabout the animals, where to find them and how
is renowned for its huge elephant herds. You willto get there and have other such useful local
also see buffalo, black rhino, zebra, wildebeest andknowledge. Have a look at some offers of
other plain animals. Lions and other cats can bevarious durations and budgets.
seen but are less plentiful here than in the Mara.But if you have a lot of time and need more
The park is 3 hours from Nairobi by road and canfreedom as you get around, then hire a vehicle in
be approached through Namanga, the border posteither Nairobi or Mombasa. For Kenya car rental
between Kenya and Tanzania.there is a choice between self-drive and chauffer
Lake Nakuru’s claim to fame is anchoreddriven vehicles. On safari, wear light cottons and
on its flamingo’s and the over 400 specieslinen. Warmer clothing is needed for the evenings
of birds found here. The lake itself is a soda lakeand for your early morning game drive. Some
on the floor of the rift valley. The sight of the atrainwear is advisable between March and June and
times millions of flamingos is quite spectacular.October and December.
From a distance the lake appears ringed in pink.You should bring along a decent pair of sunglasses.
Lake Nakuru is also host to a sanctuary for theThe glare you experience in bright tropical light is
endangered black and white rhino. Lions,a new and uncomfortable experience for most. It
Rothschild’s giraffe, buffalo and baboonsis also a good idea to carry a pair of binoculars.
are all residents here. The park is the mostThey are very useful for spotting animals and will
accessible of Kenya’s bigger parks and isearn you the envy of your less knowledgeable
only two hours from Nairobi by road.traveling companions.
At the same distance from Nairobi as Lake