My Experience Tracking the Virunga Mountain Gorillas With Uganda and Rwanda

After a night at Mt Gorilla Nest lodge, it was agroup or even move with them. Eventually he left
breaking day light on the 15th Saturday ofthe bush and sat in the path behind us. We
December when a Led a Gorilla tour of 4 peoplemoved aside to let it join the others but all in vain.
from Abacus African Vacations. A cold gentleHe could move behind us and whenever we could
wind blew over Ruhengeri town, facing thestop, he could stop as well so the rangers told us
Virunga Volcanoes. It is here that the where mainthat he was trying to show the Silver backs that
Rwanda tourism offices are located so I handed inhe too could lead and he wanted to make sure
the Gorilla permits the group I led that wasthat all was well. But later he joined his family.
supposed to track Gorillas in Perc Des NationalFour one hour, we watched infants playing on this
Volcans. In our itinerary we were to Visit bothmothers' bellies as the juveniles were
Uganda and Rwanda Gorilla National Parks.somersaulting. Finally, it was time to retrace our
After interactions between the tourists, permitpaths back as we had three hours of climbing
issuing officers, determining who is in the rightagain...……
condition for the most difficult trek and briefingNot even the drenching rain that poured halfway
about regulations from the ranger guides, the longinto our journey back could dampen our spirits. It
awaited adventure commenced.was a memory I would never forget!
Since we had opted to trek the Susa group whichRwanda has eight groups of gorillas. Each group
is referred to as the furthest family in Perc deshas a strict social structure based on age,
National Volcans , which was referred to as theindicated by how a young one will check out of an
farthest and most difficult to find, we felt the raineating point, playing space or sleeping area in. a
was doing us a favour by making them dormant.particular area for the elder. Five groups are the
We trekked through the thick vegetation, whichones typically seen during trekking. These are
the rain made rationally impassable. Several timesidentified differently according to the numbers
the wet, slippery grass saw many of the trackersthat constitute a group. Sabinyo group has 11,
slipping and sliding, with some holding on to treesSussa has 39 after the death of a baby gorilla on
for support. After persevering for 6 hours, hikingJanuary 12th, Amahoro has 14, Umubano has 8
several metres over 3500, the ranger guidesand group number 13 includes 17gorillas.
advised that we had to sit only to find that weThough most times tourists desire to track Susa
were completely surrounded by the group. Thebecause of its large gorilla composition, Francis
rangers grunted to guarantee that the silverbackssays numbers do not mean a thing.
were friendly and as a sign of acknowledgementEach family of gorillas is peculiar for instance; one
of friendliness, the silverbacks grunted in return. Ingroup may have most playful children or an easy
effect, the rangers were conversing with theto interact with silverback, another biggest
gorillas. With gorillas sitting all around and thesilverback among other behaviors that make
babies swinging playfully in' the low trees and onetracking each group an exclusive experience.
playful baby holding on to a tourist's shoes, theNevertheless, seeing a particular group very much
one-hour view of the wider nasal cavity, broaddepends on where it is that day as gorillas are
chest, black shaggy hair with silverback malesalways on the move in search of food and
striking a contrast, we were amazed. It was asafety.
truly exhilarating experience and something I willBy high merit of their habitat, Francis added,
remember for the rest of my life.gorillas do not ~ have many predators. Apart
We later transferred to Gorilla resort Camp infrom the buffaloes, golden monkeys and
Bwindi where we experienced the Virungas inelephants that share and live in synchronization
Uganda. Our tour guides briefed us about whatwith the gorillas in lower altitudes, gorillas live in
we had to do the next day. The next morning,cold conditions which other animals cannot stand,
we assembled at the starting point ready to goproviding them a monopoly of the mountain areas.
and track the Habinyanja Group. We started theFrancis explained that they are able to live in such
walks but as others followed Wildlife rangers ledcold conditions because of their black colour
the group as we began to file down the weatherpigment. "The black colour helps to attract and
beaten path on a very steep hill that wastrap heat in the high altitudes of the mountains
covered with thick bushes, tall trees, and a fewand at the same time makes gorillas less
banana plants. A heavy down pour the previoussusceptible to heat stroke as they love sun
night had left the path so slippery and most ofbathing. Gorillas in this region can live up to 45
the ladies were screaming for help as we wereyears with the silverbacks weighing about 200kg
sliding and rolling on our bottoms down the steepand females between 80 to 120kg."
slopes though it wasn't smooth sailing for theThe diet of mountain gorillas largely consists of
guys either as one kept on falling when my hikingshrubbery.
boots failed to stick in the mud and sent meThe writers aim of getting involved in the gorilla
sprawling down the hill. Sweating, swearing withtracking was also to study and analyse the diets
groans of Fatigue, we continued given the cheerof the Mountain gorilla and the constituents. She
of the anticipation of the now looming encounterfound out that Gorilla food constitutes of over 50
with the gorilla-Uganda's most popular attraction!different plants, whose leaves, shoots and stems
An hour after the walk, we came across someare eaten. For shoots, the gorillas benefit from
mud and wattle houses surrounded by Bananamainly the rainy season mountain bamboos, when
gardens, pawpaw trees and passion fruits plants.green and still tender, eaten with trocatea plants.
Women and children abandoned their chores andThe writer noticed that because the bamboo
starred at us. Some of us talked to them as ashoots are 84% water, the extra trocatea, tsile's
few of them were yelling at the whites we wereleaves, celery's stem without the tree bark,
tracking with saying-Muzungu a Swahili word thatyoung bamboo leaves, stems, urela cameronesis'
means the white man. We were given a fiveleaves and stem bark, flowers and roots, and dry
minutes break before we proceeded which weseason black berries grown on high altitude,
used to take water and take off jackets. . Oneprovides a nutritious delicacy. Plus the bark of
of the guides Chris informed us that the hard parteucalyptus trees is also eaten especially by
was yet to begin from the point where we wereSsusas of Rwanda, the largest gorilla group, for
standing so he advised that we had to proceedmedicinal purposes. The male dominant gorilla also
without out bags or any luggage we felt wasknown as the silverback is particularly skilled in his
heavy to ensure the fact that we were light. Weknowledge of herbal plants and it is known that
reached a certain point and the guide told us thatwhen one of his group members fall sick, the
the gorillas had been there a few hours ago. Hesilverback will often lead the group to another
spoke on his Radio Call and spoke to hissector of the park to find a particular herb and
colleagues.hearten the sick member of the group to eat it.
Faster we moved only stopping to wait for thoseThe writer learnt that Eating also depends on the
we had been waiting for that had relaxed toprevailing situation in a group and the weather.
catch their breath. Closer the gorillas got as weNormally gorillas have three intervals of rest
could see a few of them sitting majestically andbetween each feeding, which amounts to 40% of
motionless in tree branches watching us. This wastheir total time per day. However, if they have
a signal that our efforts and determinations weremigrated in an area that has plenty of food, they
about to pay off. We crossed a small river in onewill feed and then rest for longer periods
lip. So exhausted and excited, we crouched downcompared to times and movement into a sector
and crowled closer to the gorillas in a total silence.of limited food availability. In addition, if it's raining
Finally they came closer in a full view of Gorillas -heavily they become dormant; active again when
over 20 of them –a mind-boggling sight! Twoit stops.
silver-backs sitting next to each other at the headAfter getting pleasure from the larking about of
of the group while other huddled together closelythe young gorillas and the sheer size of the male,
behind in silent stares as our ranger grunted towith the one hour view apparent like 15 minutes,
make them move closer. The bigger silver backswe headed back down the mountain to a hot
suddenly stood on fours and stiffened as one ofcoffee and a well-earned rest.
the gorillas named Africa refused to sit with the