| The massive buffalo stared us down, his angry | | | | approached a clearing ringed by hurricane lamps. |
| eyes and horns picking up the light from the Masai | | | | Two giant bonfires burned in the center, and a |
| escort's flashlight. "Yi-yi-yi!" shouted the Masai, | | | | smiling group of Klein's staff stood next to a |
| shaking his flashlight violently. The buffalo stood | | | | candlelit table for two. We were served a |
| motionless. "Yi-yi-yi!" The buffalo lunged in our | | | | bountiful feast of soup, salad, lamb curry and |
| direction and stopped. Again, the Masai shouted | | | | champagne. Chocolate mousse ended the meal on |
| and waved his flashlight, and this time the buffalo | | | | a sweet note, and as it was served, a group of |
| sauntered off into the night, and we were able to | | | | Masai performers entered the clearing, stepping |
| safely walk the short distance to our room at the | | | | and harmonizing with skill and enthusiasm. Our |
| Ngorongoro Crater Lodge. | | | | chef couldn't resist joining in. The magic of the |
| During our stay at four different safari lodges in | | | | evening enveloped us in a warm glow, carrying us |
| Kenya and Tanzania, it was standard practice to | | | | through the rest of the extraordinary night. |
| provide a Masai tribesman, equipped with a | | | | The next day, we flew to the Ngorongoro Crater. |
| flashlight and a spear, to escort guests to and | | | | We met our driver and were whisked from the |
| from their rooms during darkness for their safety. | | | | bustling town of Karatu up the long grade to the |
| In seven previous nights, we had not seen | | | | rim of the crater, 7000 feet above sea level. |
| anything larger than a lizard, and the escort | | | | Arriving at the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge was like |
| seemed like a quaint ritual we were happy to | | | | entering Middle Earth...rows of salmon-colored |
| entertain. This time, however, the need for an | | | | thatched huts with medieval-looking chimneys |
| escort had become clear...we were in the animal's | | | | cascaded down a gentle slope towards the crater, |
| domain, and had to behave accordingly. | | | | as zebra grazed nonchalantly on a grassy |
| Our African adventure really began outside of | | | | common area. |
| Nairobi, at an amazing place called the Giraffe | | | | Our room was spectacular...a fanciful and eclectic |
| Manor.,,a storybook stone lodge where a handful | | | | mix of materials and architectural styles combined |
| of giraffe nonchalantly strode about the grounds. | | | | to create a magical space. Two soaring palapa |
| A short flight the next day delivered us to the | | | | roofs rose above the expansive bedroom and |
| Satao Elerai Lodge, in Kenya's Amboseli Park, at | | | | bath areas, with a crystal chandelier suspended in |
| the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. A sturdy-looking guide, | | | | each. Looming over our bed was a giant panel of |
| Divan, loaded our bags into a Land Cruiser. As we | | | | crimson silk fabric framed by carved wood. |
| got farther from the landing strip, large groups of | | | | The afternoon game drive was brief. Departing |
| Thompson's Gazelles, wildebeest and zebra could | | | | around 3 with our guide Timothy, we descended |
| be seen, as well as groups of hippos and | | | | quickly, soon sighting a couple of lions, and |
| elephants. We were able to get within a few | | | | spending time at a hippo pool marked by lots of |
| yards of a small pride of lions, resting after a kill | | | | splashing. At a distance, Timothy spotted a rare |
| as unconcerned prey grazed nearby. They were | | | | black rhino, and we strained to see it through the |
| magnificent, even in repose. | | | | binoculars. Back by dark, dinner was again |
| As darkness fell, we reached the lodge, a | | | | wonderful, and soon we were dialing up the twin |
| collection of wood and stucco huts fashioned | | | | electric blankets in our bed. |
| imaginatively out of twisting branches and local | | | | The next morning, we dressed warmly for the |
| stone. The accommodations were quite cozy, and | | | | game drive. Shortly after reaching the bottom, a |
| we were served a delicious dinner next to our | | | | cheetah appeared right next to our vehicle and |
| own portable fireplace. The next morning, we | | | | stayed close by for several minutes and good |
| awoke to see Mt. Kilimanjaro gloriously lit by the | | | | photographs. Timothy had packed a breakfast, |
| rising sun, and took breakfast on a lovely view | | | | and we stopped at a picnic area near a hippo pool. |
| deck. The staff was refreshingly polite and | | | | As we munched on granola, bacon and fritatta |
| friendly...greeting us with a cheery "Jambo" (hello) | | | | and sipped warm coffee to offset the morning |
| whenever we passed. These qualities would be | | | | chill, we watched the hippos interact. A number of |
| consistent everywhere we went. Out into the | | | | beautiful ibis, starlings and weaverbirds flitted |
| bush, we saw new sights...beautiful Crown Cranes, | | | | about. |
| a frolicking troop of baboons, an assortment of | | | | As the clouds receded, we drove about, |
| ostrich, and then a fantastic confluence of | | | | encountering a herd of zebra which practically had |
| elephant herds around our vehicle. Three groups | | | | to be pushed off the road. We parked to watch a |
| of perhaps 20 elephants of all sizes passed on | | | | group of lions...four females and two cubs...which |
| either side of us on their way to a watering hole, | | | | walked directly towards us, practically touching |
| almost close enough to touch. A truly amazing | | | | the vehicle as they appeared to be stalking some |
| moment. | | | | wildebeest. One female stayed behind with the |
| After lunch, we visited a Masai village. They | | | | cubs as the other three began approaching the |
| welcomed us with a performance of singing and | | | | herd under cover of the tall grass. Steadily they |
| jumping. Wilson, our host, invited us into his house, | | | | advanced, one at a time, the cubs and their |
| a dark two-room mud hut with a few tiny | | | | guardian behind. Suddenly the wildebeest became |
| openings, and only the simplest of furnishings...a | | | | aware of the lions' presence, and adopted |
| few stones for cooking and two beds of cowhide | | | | defensive positions at a safe distance. Soon, the |
| stretched over a wood frame. We saw a | | | | lions abandoned their quest as the wildebeest |
| demonstration of native medicinal herbs and | | | | trotted away. Later, we noticed a herd jumping |
| firestarting. They all were pleased to hear that we | | | | across a river at great speed. Soon we spotted |
| planned to vote for Obama. Late in the afternoon, | | | | four hyena, closing in on the herd and causing |
| we passed a couple of lions peacefully sleeping on | | | | them to reverse direction. They kept the |
| the road, and a huge mamba snake on the road. | | | | wildebeest scurrying back and forth, but |
| Soon we were back at the lodge for dinner and | | | | eventually they too left in frustration. By |
| drinks around a roaring fire. | | | | mid-afternoon we were ready for lunch, and we |
| En route to Tanzania's game preserves we | | | | ascended the steep road back to the lodge. |
| stopped for a night at the Arusha Coffee Lodge, | | | | After lunch, we repaired to the room and lit a |
| an elegant inn set in the middle of a coffee | | | | fire, sipping sherry and basking in the luxury of |
| plantation. We enjoyed a superb dinner and restful | | | | our surroundings. After another splendid dinner, |
| night. The next morning, we were off to Grumeti | | | | we stopped by the bar to chat with our new |
| River Camp. We hooked up with our new guide, | | | | friends from London. When we were ready to call |
| Waziri, and checked into our room, a giant | | | | it a night, we encountered the surly buffalo |
| thatched A-frame covering a tent facing the river | | | | mentioned earlier. Once safely inside our room, |
| and its noisy resident hippo population. | | | | we bedded down for our final night on safari, |
| Our afternoon game drive began at the river, | | | | feeling wistful that it had come to an end, but |
| where we saw a group of storks...pretty | | | | looking forward to a few days in Zanzibar, the |
| yellow-billed ones and surpassingly ugly Maribou, | | | | Spice Island. |
| with their fleshy pink wattles that dangled halfway | | | | The drive from the airport offered a fascinating |
| to the ground. A couple of Nile crocodiles lay | | | | study into Zanzibar life, as the road was teeming |
| about. We roamed about freely as herds of | | | | with pedestrians, bicycles and "dala-dala" buses, on |
| impala and wildebeest watched our progress. | | | | which as many as 20 people jammed onto two |
| Suddenly, Waziri spotted a male lion in a thicket, | | | | long benches. Small shops sold everything from |
| and we pulled up for a closer look, being cautioned | | | | lumber to groceries, cell phones to plastic laundry |
| not to make any sudden movements. Two more | | | | tubs. Women, dressed in colorful fabrics that |
| lion were nearby, all sitting in a restful manner. We | | | | covered their heads were reflective of the Muslim |
| pulled closer to observe the peacefully resting | | | | culture, which comprises 95% of the population. |
| cats. | | | | Groups of schoolgirls, dressed in bright uniforms |
| Later, Waziri set up a small table for the traditional | | | | and white scarves, walked alongside carts derived |
| "sundowner" drink. Over cocktails, we toasted | | | | from automobile parts and pulled by oxen or |
| each other and marked the occasion with photos. | | | | donkeys. Houses built of varying materials and in |
| We arrived back at the camp in darkness and | | | | varying states of completion alternated with small |
| prepared for dinner, which was served in a | | | | plots of bananas or maize. Farther from town, the |
| courtyard area framed by a fence of timbers | | | | road was lined with rows of mango trees, forming |
| ringed with hurricane lamps. It felt like "Survivor." | | | | a shady canopy. Soon we turned into the |
| The five-course dinner was superb and a nearly | | | | driveway of Beaches. |
| full moon added to the atmosphere. Afterwards, | | | | The resort was, in contrast to the intimate feel |
| we retired to our tent and fell asleep to a | | | | of the safari lodges, a sprawling collection of |
| symphony of bird calls, monkey shrieks, hippo | | | | bungalows and villas, adjacent to miles of white, |
| grunts and a couple of lion roars. | | | | powdery beach. Here, instead of 6 AM wake-up |
| On the next day's game drive, we were greeted | | | | calls and hours hanging onto a jouncing vehicle, we |
| immediatelyby a solitary hippo wandering about | | | | had little to do except lounge by the beach or the |
| the landing strip, far from the river. With few | | | | pool, sipping Kilimanjaro beer and South African |
| clouds, the light was great as we encountered a | | | | chardonnay. The room was nice, although nothing |
| large herd of giraffe. Driving further, we | | | | like the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, and after |
| encountered a den of hyenas, perhaps as many | | | | checking out the beach, we were content to chill |
| as a dozen, with several cubs that occasionally | | | | out for the rest of the afternoon. |
| popped their heads up. One hyena held a | | | | Dinner was served in a large, covered, open-air |
| wildebeest's leg in its mouth, refusing to let go. | | | | setting with views of the pool and beach. |
| Then Waziri spotted a concentration of buzzards, | | | | Entertainment was provided by a local group who, |
| so we took off in that direction to investigate. A | | | | after a set of instrumental jams, began |
| huge gathering of perhaps 40 buzzards of several | | | | performing rock covers, which were was an |
| species were attacking a wildebeest carcass, with | | | | interesting cross-pollination of western and African |
| much squawking and jostling for position. | | | | styles. We left to the strains of Marley's "One |
| Soon afterward, I spotted a lone buffalo in a | | | | Love" which gradually faded as we walked back |
| thicket. Next to her was a newborn calf, glistening | | | | to our room. |
| in the morning light and struggling to stand. The | | | | The next day we took a trip to historic Stone |
| umbilical cord still trailed from the mother, who | | | | Town with our guide, Mudi. He escorted us into |
| whirled to defend her calf, nostrils flaring. Soon | | | | chambers used to house slaves during the |
| she realized they were in no danger, and as soon | | | | infamous Zanzibar slave trade, which had |
| as the baby could walk, they rejoined the herd. | | | | flourished until 1873. Seeing the conditions the |
| We saw a troop of baboons...clinging to one was a | | | | slaves endured was very disturbing. We visited an |
| very tiny baby, with pink translucent ears which | | | | old Anglican church serving the small Christian |
| let the sunlight through. A pair of beautiful Bateleur | | | | population, and soon found ourselves in the |
| eagles with bright orange beaks surveyed the | | | | marketplace, a maze of narrow alleys into which |
| scene from a nearby perch. | | | | were crammed booths offering all manner of |
| We drove back to camp for lunch and a midday | | | | food and merchandise. People flowed past each |
| break, enjoying a calamari salad as the hippos | | | | other with barely enough room to get by. One |
| entertained us. Not long into our afternoon drive, | | | | alley served as the fish market...mounds of |
| Waziri picked up a report of a lion sighting. We | | | | octopus and fish of varying sizes were heaped |
| discovered a male in a thicket, who started | | | | upon stone tables...nearby were meat and poultry |
| walking slowly towards a clearing, the most active | | | | markets. |
| lion we had seen. Another lion emerged and | | | | We stopped at a spice booth, offering bags of |
| walked slowly towards our vehicle, stopping to | | | | spices as well as assortments. Strolling past |
| rest about 20 feet away. We watched | | | | produce booths, Mudi showed us some of the |
| breathlessly as a whole pride emerged, one by | | | | local fruit, such as jackfruit and lichee. Roving |
| one, and came to rest in front of us, unconcerned | | | | merchants accosted us offering necklaces, |
| by our presence. Ten lions in all gathered, and we | | | | Tanzanian soccer jerseys and CDs. We passed a |
| remained there for quite a while. Our return to | | | | booth with some beautiful scarves, one of which |
| camp crossed the river at a point where we | | | | Ellen picked up for about $4, and poked around |
| could see four of the mighty Nile crocodile. | | | | several curio shops. At one point our guide |
| The following morning we were to depart for | | | | identified some amplified chanting as the work of |
| Klein's Camp, which enjoys a beautiful ridgetop | | | | a traditional witch doctor, which many locals still |
| setting. The circular, white stucco room was nicely | | | | trust. Our walk continued through an old Arab fort |
| furnished in a Colonial style. We enjoyed a late | | | | with a grassy courtyard that had become an |
| lunch in their open air dining hall, and met the rest | | | | impromptu art market featuring touristy paintings. |
| of our afternoon party... Jeff and Amy, a | | | | We stopped at the Africa House hotel for a beer |
| honeymooning couple from Manhattan...in the | | | | on its veranda overlooking the harbor. From |
| clubby, comfortable bar with its sweeping views. | | | | there, we toured the local museum with exhibits |
| On the afternoon game drive, we employed a | | | | covering periods of Portuguese, Arab and British |
| Masai tracker, Labo, who sat in a chair mounted | | | | colonial rule, as well as Swahili culture. Mudi also |
| on the front of the vehicle. We encountered the | | | | pointed out the building where Freddy Mercury, |
| familiar giraffe, elephant, impala and baboons, until | | | | the lead singer of Queen, was born. A couple of |
| a radio report of a lion sighting led us to a male | | | | historic government buildings marked the end of |
| and female lion enjoying a siesta under a tree. | | | | our tour, and we rode back to the resort, |
| Suddenly, the male mounted the female, | | | | satisfied with our three-hour crash course in |
| shuddered once and dismounted as the female let | | | | Zanzibar culture. Later, dinner was served at our |
| out a cry. The whole thing took perhaps five | | | | table as a troupe of acrobats and jugglers |
| seconds. We found out that lions will mate for a | | | | performed an assortment of stunts, such as |
| period of five to seven days, every 20 minutes | | | | somersaulting through small hoops, and |
| or so, and that it is painful for the female. | | | | handstands on stacks of bricks. |
| Apparently foreplay is not part of the lion's mating | | | | We booked a massage for the following |
| ritual. | | | | afternoon...two petite Asian women worked their |
| Sometime later, Labo spotted a group of cheetah | | | | magic fingers into our receptive muscles. A stint in |
| lying in the long grass. They did little other than | | | | the eucalyptus-scented steam room and a Jacuzzi |
| raise their heads on occasion, but we were thrilled | | | | completed our spa experience. Afterwards, we |
| to see these seldom-spotted creatures, and spent | | | | took a long walk on the beach. We stumbled onto |
| a while observing and photographing them. Soon it | | | | a beachside souvenir shop, and met an artist in his |
| was time for the "sundowner" and we stopped to | | | | studio, who was displaying pretty much the same |
| toast our adventures. This night we were | | | | ubiquitous paintings. |
| scheduled for a night drive, in which the tracker | | | | The theme for dinner was "Spice Night," and |
| shone a spotlight into the bush, looking for pairs of | | | | music was provided by a small ensemble of older |
| eyes. We failed to see many animals...the | | | | gentlemen. They performed hauntingly beautiful |
| experience of bouncing along in the moonlit bush | | | | music that seemed to combine all the threads of |
| the only entertainment to be had. | | | | Zanzibar culture. The next morning, we got up |
| The following morning, we scoured the river areas | | | | early for sunrise photos. It was beautifully quiet. |
| for trees for leopards. Herds of hartebeests, | | | | We had breakfast and packed for the last time. |
| zebra, gazelle and impala caught our interest from | | | | All too soon, it was time to drive to the airport. |
| time to time, but we were captivated by a | | | | Soon, we were on a flight to Nairobi, during which |
| cheetah that suddenly appeared just a few feet | | | | we could see the crater at the top of Mt. |
| from our vehicle, apparently stalking something. | | | | Kilimanjaro. |
| As sundowner time approached, we parked on a | | | | By the time we were picked up at SFO, it was |
| flat granite outcropping, and set up the bar. | | | | mid-afternoon and we had been in transit some |
| As we finished our drinks, another vehicle picked | | | | 38 hours. But along with the carved animals, |
| us up for a surprise honoring our 30th | | | | masks and other curios, we had brought back |
| anniversary, and we took off into the long grass. | | | | memories that would last a lifetime. |
| 45 minutes later, we saw a group of lights as we | | | | |